Ulleungdo, Dokdo offer cliffs, history and Korea’s wild eastern edge

ULLEUNG, North Gyeongsang Province — After a six-hour overnight boat ride from Pohang across some of South Korea’s roughest waters, the first glimpse of Ulleungdo comes quietly into view: the sun rising over a misty sea, lighting up sheer cliffs, deep-blue waters and vegetation that feels almost alien.

“We don’t run boats in the winter because of high waves and difficult sea conditions,” said an executive at Ulleung Cruise, which operates the only multistory ship on the Pohang-Ulleung route.

“It ...